I love makeup but have never really known how to apply it properly. The biggest issue for me is applying eye makeup. Can you please talk me through basic eyeshadow and pencil eyeliner application, and the brushes I should use? I have brown, almond-shaped eyes, dark-brown hair and a pale complexion.

Thanks in advance for your advice! Juanita.

Dear Juanita,

There are many different ways to apply eyeshadow. Today I will take you through what I consider to be a foolproof technique, which is great for both beginners and experts alike. In fact, you will notice in my videos that I use this technique (and variations of it) almost every single time I apply eye makeup.

To do basic eyeshadow I would recommend you start with two pressed-powder eyeshadows (a light shade and a mid-toned shade in either a matte, satin or metallic texture) and two brushes: a fluffy blending brush and a flat eyeshadow brush. For basic eyeliner, I would suggest you use an eyeliner pencil in conjunction with a small angle brush.

(Note: The brushes and techniques outlined below will work equally as well with loose-powder shadows, but when you are just starting out, pressed formulations are usually easier to manage.)

THE STEPS!

1) Prepare the eyelid.

To ensure you get a true color payoff from your eyeshadow, even out the skin tone in the eye area by applying a layer of foundation and/or concealer first.

Makeup artist tip!
If you are going to use a metallic-textured shadow, apply it directly on top of a satin-finish foundation or concealer for maximum shine. Alternatively, if you are going to use a matte eyeshadow and want to make blending easier, dust some matte loose powder over the foundation or concealer before you start.

To watch me prepare the eyelid for a metallic eyeshadow, watch the segment of the video at 0.00 to 1 min 25 secs in the following blog post: Glam-eyed pirate girl.

To watch me prepare the eyelid for a matte eyeshadow, watch the segment of the video at 1 min 44 secs to 3 mins 21 secs in the following blog post: A strong brow is very now!

2) Highlight the brow bone and inner corner of the eye with a fluffy blending brush.

Pick up a pale-colored eyeshadow on a fluffy blending brush and tap off any excess. Using back-and-forth strokes and circular movements, blend the shadow over the brow bone, inner corner of the eye, and eyelid (optional).

Avoid white when you highlight!
Be careful if you choose to highlight the eye area with white. If it’s not applied properly and blended well, it can make the eyes look ‘drag queenish’. Light colors (such as nude, cream, beige or vanilla) work well as highlighters on fair complexions. Pastel yellow and peach are my picks for yellow-based/dark-olive skins, while ochre yellows and orangey browns work best on black skin. Making a feature of the brow bone is very 1980s, so to keep your makeup modern, subtlety is key in the brow bone department. I typically apply something very sheer to achieve that ‘just caught the light’ effect. Leaving the brow bone bare is also acceptable, but can sometimes leave the look unfinished.

Makeup artist tip!
If you pick up too much eyeshadow on a fluffy blending brush and don’t knock off the excess, you will get fallout on your face. After I dip the bristles in eyeshadow, I like to tap any excess off on the back of my hand before I apply it to the eye. Then, if I need more shadow, I simply revisit the back of my hand and collect it from there.

To watch me highlight the brow bone and inner corner of the eye, watch the segment of the video at 4 mins 17 secs to 4 mins 33 secs in the following blog post: Golden Girl: A Valentino-inspired summer makeup look.

My favorite fluffy blending brushes are MAC’s 224 Tapered Blending Brush and Bobbi Brown’s Eye Blender Brush.

3) Apply color to the lid with a flat eyeshadow brush.

Pick up a mid-toned eyeshadow on the wide side of a flat eyeshadow brush and knock off any excess. To make the eyelid taut, stretch the skin by gently pulling the outer corner of the eye with your fingertips (on your non-writing hand) or tilt your head slightly backwards. Using a repetitive patting motion and following the natural contour of the eye, press the shadow over the eyelid from the lash line to the crease to create a solid block of color. Then, take a fluffy blending brush and blend the shadow back-and-forth and round-and-round over the lid, and through the socket line to soften the color and smooth the edges.

Makeup artist tip!
When most people apply eyeshadow to the eyelid, they simply blend it back and forward and wonder why they can never achieve much more than a diluted wash of color. The secret to professional-looking eyeshadow is to press it on. Patting the eyeshadow onto the lid allows you to build up a layer of color, which you can then blend to achieve that soft-focus, smoky, ”I’ve just visited a makeup artist” effect. Like most things makeup related, a one-size-fits-all approach doesn’t work, so how much color you initially apply and how much you blend it is totally up to you. If you are trying this technique for the first time, be patient and don’t rush it! Remember, practicing and experimenting is all part of the fun. Flat eyeshadow brushes come in varying shapes and sizes; choose one that works with the size and shape of your eye.

The fallout frustration!
The best way to prevent fallout is to make sure you don’t overload your brush. As I mentioned earlier, ensure you tap off any excess shadow on the back of your hand before you begin. Then, using your hand as a palette, work between it and your face to add more color to the eye. Some eyeshadows (particularly dark hues and certain textures) have a tendency to cause fallout regardless of the precautions you take. In this case, to prevent your eyeshadow from dropping particles on your cheeks and ruining your foundation, apply your eye makeup first, clean up your skin and then apply your base. If you are a foundation-first kinda girl and have a free hand available when you are applying your eyeshadow, hold a tissue beneath your eye. The tissue will protect your complexion by catching any stray specks as they fall. Another trick to try is tilting your head slightly backwards when you are looking into the mirror; this not only helps keep the eyeshadow on your lids, but it’s also a great way to see what you are doing.

To watch me apply an antique-gold eyeshadow to the eyelid with a flat eyeshadow brush and blend it with a fluffy blending brush, watch the segment of the video at 4 mins 52 secs to 7 mins 20 secs in the following blog post: Golden Girl: A Valentino-inspired summer makeup look.

My favorite flat eyeshadow brushes are MAC’s 239 Eye Shader Brush and Dior’s Medium Eyeshadow Brush.

4) Blend eyeliner pencil with a small angle brush.

For a smooth application, take a sharpened eye pencil and warm the point on the back of your hand. Tip your head back slightly as you look into the mirror, and using your free hand stretch the skin at the outer corner of the eye. This will pull the skin on the eyelid tight and make application easier. To make the eyelashes appear fuller, apply the pencil using a series of short, overlapping strokes along the top and bottom lash lines, as close to the roots of the lashes as possible. If desired, also apply it along the upper and lower inner rims. To accentuate the shape and lift the eye, apply your eyeliner thinnest at the inner corner, thickening it as you move outwards. To take the harshness off the line, blur it slightly by blending with a small angle brush. Use small strokes, and work from both the inside out and outside in. If you want your eyes to appear more elongated, line them all the way around, and then blend the pencil with a small angle brush so the inner and outer corners meet in a wing.

To watch me apply pencil eyeliner and blend it with a small angle brush, watch the segment of the video at 4 mins 18 secs to 6 mins 11 secs in the following blog post: Smoky eyes for daytime.

Makeup artist tip!
A small angle brush has many uses! Use it to:

• apply powder eyeshadow as eyeliner. Watch the segment of the video at 0.00 to 3 mins 16 secs in the following blog post: Is applying liquid eyeliner your biggest beauty frustration?
• apply powder eyeshadow to the lower lash line and lower inner rim. Watch the segment of the video at 3 mins 4 secs to 4 mins 16 secs in the following blog post: Gothic Glamor.
• achieve a perfect flick with gel eyeliner. Watch the segment of the video at 6 mins 24 secs to 8 mins 13 secs in the following blog post: Bright is the new black!
• apply brow powder. Watch this segment of the video at 8 mins 37 secs to 10 mins 39 secs in the following blog post: A strong brow is very now!

My favorite small angle brushes are MAC’s 266 Small Angle Brush and Shu Uemura’s Natural Brush 6 o b.

For more tips and tricks on how to use these eye makeup brushes, go here: The three eye makeup brushes you should own!

Hope this is helpful!

Love lots and pink polka dots, Little Miss Makeup.

Juanita trialed the three MAC brushes and the techniques mentioned in this post, and her verdict is in! This is what Juanita said about the brushes:

MAC 224 Tapered Blending Brush: “I’m in love. I use this brush to apply my matte beige base/highlighter and it works a treat. It distributes the product well and gives an even finish. I do have a few issues with fallout, so I use a tissue to protect my under-eye area as you recommend.”

MAC 239 Eye Shader Brush: “This brush makes applying lid color easy. I like the technique you suggested. Pressing a medium-tone eyeshadow over the lid gives a nice saturation of color, and then you have the flexibility to blend it as much or as little as you like. I tend to blend a lot when I’m creating a daytime look, and less at night when I want a heavier, more pigmented finish.”

MAC 266 Small Angle Brush: “I wasn’t in love with this brush in the beginning; it felt kind of scratchy. I had to brush rather hard to blend the pencil eyeliner, which left my eyes red and sensitive. That said, I think it worked effectively and I did achieve a fine, sharp line. I have since tried using it with a gel eyeliner and got a better, less-irritating result. I feel like the bristles will splay quite quickly with this brush though.”

LMM’s response to Juanita’s comments about the MAC 266 Small Angle Brush: “Oh, dear. It sounds like you were using a long-wear eye pencil. These formulations tend to set on application, and because they don’t usually contain much wax they can be impossible to blend. The upside is that they are generally long-lasting and smudge-proof. You shouldn’t have to press hard with this brush, so there should be no reason for the bristles to splay. Stop now before you do yourself (and the brush) an irreversible injury . To blend successfully with the MAC 266 Small Angle Brush you need a little bit of slip, so I would recommend you try a softer eye pencil next time. I have been using my MAC 266 Small Angle Brush almost every day for over ten years, and it still looks as good as new. The secret to keeping your brushes in top condition is to clean them regularly with a mild cleanser and water. So they retain their shape, ensure you squeeze any excess water from the bristles before you lay them down to dry.

If you want to try something different, you may like to give the following eyelining technique a go. With this method you get the benefit of full-looking lashes without the stress of having to create a precision-perfect line on the lid. Instead of working along the top side of the lashes, you will be working from the underside. Start by picking up a dark-toned matte eyeshadow with a small angle brush and tap off any excess. Angle your head slightly backward and look into the mirror. With your spare hand, gently stretch the skin at the temple to pull the eyelid taut. Keep your eye open, and use the full tip of the brush to repeatedly press the shadow along the upper inner rim (the fleshy strip beneath your lashes). If needed, pick up more shadow as you go. Repeat along the lower inner rim if you wish. When you first try this your natural instinct will be to blink, but persevere and you will get used to it. If this method causes serious waterworks, I have another solution.

Again, pick up a dark-toned matte eyeshadow with a small angle brush and tap off any excess. This time, look straight into the mirror so you can see your lash line clearly. Close your eye, and with your free hand gently pull the skin at the outer corner of the eye to stretch the eyelid tight. Using the full length of the brush tip and an overlapping, repetitive motion, press the shadow along the top lash line as close to the roots of the lashes as possible. In non-technical terms, there is a ridge between where the eyelid finishes and the lashes start; this is where you should be aiming to place the shadow. As before, pick up more shadow as needed, and use a similar action to line the lower lashes if desired. This technique works well because the thickness of the line you create is controlled by the width of the brush, and with the MAC 266 Small Angle Brush, the result is fine and well-measured. If you try these suggestions, please let me know how you go. Have fun!”

Juanita's finished look. Such a stunning job!

Do you have a makeup issue that I might be able to help you with? ”Dear LMM . . . “ is a new series I am running, but you must be a member of Little Miss Makeup Club to participate. Join today by subscribing on the homepage!

“Little Miss Makeup, I suck at applying eye makeup!” is a post from: Little Miss Makeup's Blog

In the Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2011 show, there was a clear message in the makeup:

“More is more”

and

“Everything in excess”!

The models faces gave off a distinctive retro vibe, signalling that the ’70s are back with a vengeance.

To replicate this look (and learn how to apply smokey eyeshadow and achieve a bitten-looking berry lip), watch the video tutorial below.

My top smokey eyeshadow tip! Always start with eye makeup, not base. If you apply your foundation first it is likely to be ruined by fallout. So, to save time and effort, begin with eyeshadow, then, clean up the area beneath the eye before you follow up with foundation.

Preparation.

Cleanser: Bioderma Créaline H₂O Ultra-Mild Non-Rinse Cleanser for Normal to Sensitive Skin.

Moisturizer: Lancôme Hydra Zen Neurocalm Gel Essence.

Concealer and Highlighter Pen.

The following products were mixed together to create the perfect color and consistency for the eye area:

M·A·C Studio Finish in NC30, NW25 and NW30. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com and MACCosmetics.co.uk.

Chanel Éclat Lumière in Beige Rosé 30.

Applied with: Shu Uemura Eye Brush Synthetic 10.

Eyeshadow.

Inner corner color: M·A·C Pigment in Frozen White. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com, MACCosmetics.co.uk and MACCosmetics.com.au.

Pressed over the inner corner with: Ruby and Millie Eye Blending Brush M7MM.

Blended over the inner corner with: Bobbi Brown Eye Blender Brush. Buy it online at: BobbiBrown.com,  BobbiBrown.co.uk and BobbiBrown.com.au.

Lid color: M·A·C Eye Shadow in Contrast. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com, MACCosmetics.co.uk and MACCosmetics.com.au.

Pressed onto the lid with: M·A·C Eye Shader Brush 239. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com, MACCosmetics.co.uk and MACCosmetics.com.au.

Applied along the lower lashline with: M·A·C Small Angle Brush 266. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com, MACCosmetics.co.uk and MACCosmetics.com.au.

Worked across the bottom lashes with: M·A·C Mini Shader 228. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com, MACCosmetics.co.uk and MACCosmetics.com.au.

Blended along the lower lashline with: M·A·C Medium Angled Shading Brush 275. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com, MACCosmetics.co.uk and MACCosmetics.com.au.

Blended through the crease and over the outer corner with: Nars Small Domed Eye Brush 12. Buy it online at: NarsCosmetics.com.

Lower inner rim color: M·A·C Eye Shadow in Carbon. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com, MACCosmetics.co.uk and MACCosmetics.com.au.

Applied with: M·A·C Small Angled Brush 266. Buy it online at: MACCosmetics.com, MACCosmetics.co.uk and MACCosmetics.com.au.

Eyelash Curler.

Shu Uemura Mini Eyelash Curler.

Mascara.

Dior Diorshow Black Out Mascara.

Foundation.

Chanel Pro Lumière in Beige 40.

Applied with: Chanel Foundation Brush 6.

Lipstick.

Dior Addict Lip Color in Perfecto 991.

Applied with: Chanel Petit Pinceau Correcteur (Small Concealer Brush #8).

Blush.

Becca Beach Tint in Watermelon. Buy it online at: BeccaCosmetics.com, BeccaCosmetics.co.uk and BeccaCosmetics.com.au.

Applied with: Prescriptives Foundation Brush.

Retro Glam: The Seventies Reborn is a post from: Little Miss Makeup's Blog

Do you ever fake it?

Little Miss Makeup does!

Fake eyelashes are burning hot right now, so stand clear of the smoke detectors, girls!

For the latest false lash fash, check out the Wink and Flutter photo file and video tutorial below:

Before.	During.	After.

For a free copy of the Wink and Flutter eLook (a step-by-step guide which outlines how to put on fake eyelashes), join Little Miss Makeup Club.

Want to know how to apply individual false lashes? Check out the Summer Simplicity look.

Bat those eyelashes, baby!

Wink and Flutter: How to put on fake eyelashes is a post from: Little Miss Makeup's Blog

At party time, glitter is a girl’s best friend!

For eyelids that sparkle like shiny disco balls, watch the video tutorial and follow the step-by-step instructions below:

The lowdown.

Makeup artist tip! To make eye makeup application easier, keep your eyes open, tilt your head backwards (to stretch the skin on your eyelid taut) and look into a mirror.

1). Begin by creating a base. Prime the eyelid and the area beneath the eye with concealer^(a), and to ensure it stays put, dust on a layer of loose, matte powder^(b).

2). Blend a powder eyeshadow^(c) over the eyelid.

Makeup artist tip! To make gaps less noticeable, choose a shade which complements your choice of glitter.

3). To give the eye extra oomph, take the eyeshadow^(c) underneath the eye and blend it along the lower lashes; then, work a black eyeliner pencil^(d) across the top and bottom lash lines, and along the upper and lower inner rims.

4). For a fan-like flutter, apply two coats of black mascara^(e) to the lashes.

5). Dip a flat, synthetic eyeshadow brush^(f) in glitter glue^(g) and press it over the eyelid.

Makeup artist tip! Avoid the lash line, as the adhesive can sting if it enters the eye.

6). Pick up some glitter^(h) on the same brush (as used in Step 5) and, using the flat side, pat it onto the eyelid. Keep adding more until you build up the desired intensity.

Makeup artist tip! To prevent fall-out onto the face, hold a folded tissue below the eye with your free hand. If, despite your best efforts, you still get specks of glitter on your cheeks, don’t panic. Simply use a clean mascara wand to remove them. Swipe the brush over any stray glitter particles and it will pull them from the skin without ruining your foundation. Clean the brush by running your fingers over the bristles, and then repeat the process if necessary.

Coordinate your look … wear matching eyes and nails!

For disco-licious fingers and toes, simply add glitter to clear nail polish and paint it on.

It’s time to rock the party, gals!

Shopping list.

(a). Concealer: Benefit Boi-ing.

(b). Loose powder: Shu Uemura Face Powder Matte in Colorless.

(c). Eyeshadow: From the Benefit Smokin’ Eyes kit.

(d). Eyeliner pencil: From the Benefit Smokin’ Eyes kit.

(e). Mascara: Benefit BADgal Lash.

(f). Flat, synthetic eyeshadow brush: The Body Shop Eyeshadow Brush.

(g). Glitter glue: Glitter Glue by Ben Nye. Buy it online from: AlconeCo.com or ScreenFace.co.uk.

(h). Glitter: M·A·C PRO Glitter in 3D Silver. Other alternatives: Fardel Loose Glitter in P05, and Ben Nye Sparklers in Silver which can be bought online from: AlconeCo.com, GuruMakeupEmporium.com and ScottysMakeup.com.au.

For perfect party eyes … go glittery! is a post from: Little Miss Makeup's Blog

Prepare your peepers!

1) Apply concealer to the eyelid to even out any discoloration and then apply a light layer of loose powder over the top. A dusting of powder will help both your eyeshadow and eyeliner adhere smoothly and last longer.

2) Apply your eyeshadow as normal.

Use pencil as a stencil!

1) Before applying liquid liner, draw a guide line with an eye pencil or matte eyeshadow first.

2) When you have a perfect line, trace straight over it with liquid eyeliner.

Why draw a guide line? I prefer to draft a line with pencil or powder first because these formulations are more forgiving when it comes to mistakes than their liquid counterparts. Because they don’t tend to set hard or dry completely, errors can easily be smudged away with a dry Q-Tip (cotton bud). And, once you have created a precise powder or pencil line to follow, you will be less likely to go wrong when it’s time to apply the liquid layer.

Pointers for using a pencil! Always sharpen an eye pencil before use; and prior to application, warm the point on the back of your hand to soften it. If the tip is too sharp, it may drag or damage the delicate skin in the eye area. Ouch!

If you prefer powder over pencil, sketch on some shadow! Take a small amount of matte eyeshadow on an angled eyeliner brush, knock off any excess and then carefully stipple it along the lash line.

Makeup artist tip: Good eyeliner defines and shapes the eye. To achieve a perfect lash line, apply the eyeliner as close to the base of the eyelashes as possible and work it in between them.

Elongate the eyes by creating a wing at the outer corner of the upper lash line.

Wanna know the trick to achieving the perfect flick?

1) Look into a mirror and draw the wing on with your eyes open. This way you are more likely to position it correctly.

2) To get the right angle, imagine you are drawing a line from the corner of your nose to the outer corner of your eye, and simply extend the line in an upward direction toward your temple. If you can’t visualize it, lie a ruler across your face.

3) To start, draw a very faint, fine line and gradually modify it to achieve the desired width and intensity.

Unleash the liquid!

1) Take a small amount of liquid eyeliner on an eyeliner brush and wipe the tip on the back of your hand to remove any excess.

Makeup artist tip: Just learning? To get familiar with your brush, paint a few lines of varying thickness on the back of your hand.

2) In front of a mirror, tilt your head backwards and gently pull the eyelid taut with the fingertips of your free hand. Tightening the skin will help eliminate creases and gaps.

3) Following your pencil or powder guide line, start in the middle of the eye and work outward along the top lash line using a series of short, overlapping strokes. Lastly, line the inner upper corner of the eye with any product remaining on the brush.

Makeup artist tip: For a precise and controlled application, use an eyeliner brush with a very fine head. Press the side of the brush against the eyelid to create the line, not just the tip. This way you can sweep the liner on flawlessly.

Mucked up?

If you make a boo-boo with liquid eyeliner, you generally have to call for heavy-duty help! If a liquid eyeliner emergency does strike, administer First Aid as follows:

1) Wet one end of a fine Q-Tip with an oil-based eye makeup remover and gently wipe the mistake away.

2) Use the dry end of the Q-Tip to remove any traces of oil from the skin. If any residue remains you won’t be able to reapply the eyeliner properly, so be thorough!

3) If the mistake was a monster, don’t forget to reapply the base products you have erased (i.e. concealer, powder, eyeshadow) before you reattempt the eyeliner. If you don’t, the end color may appear patchy.

What’s the best eyeliner look for my eye shape?

Makeup artist tip: For a classic look, only use liquid eyeliner on the top lash line. For less mess and improved durability underneath the eye, use a matte powder or pencil along the lower lash line and/or inner rim.

Round eyes: On the upper and lower lash lines, draw a thicker line at the outer corner of the eye, tapering toward the inner corner.

Almond-shaped eyes: Wear thick or thin eyeliner the whole way across the eyelid, both top and bottom.

Small eyes: Paint a fine line right at the roots of the top lashes and leave the bottom lash line bare.

Protruding eyes: Draw a thick, dark-colored line along the upper lashes to help push back the pronounced eyelids. Line the outer corner of the lower lid if desired.

Remember: Practice makes perfect. Go forth and make liquid eyeliner your signature statement!

Shopping List!

Powder line:

MAC Eye Shadow in Carbon. Buy it online from: MAC Cosmetics.com, MAC Cosmetics.co.uk and MAC Cosmetics.com.au.

Shu Uemura Natural Brush 6 o b. Buy it online from: Shu Uemura-USA.com and Shu Uemura.co.uk.

Liquid line:

MAC Liquidlast Liner in Point Black. Buy it online from: MAC Cosmetics.com, MAC Cosmetics.co.uk and MAC Cosmetics.com.au.

MAC Eyeliner Brush 25 (discontinued). Its replacement in the current range is MAC Precise Eye Liner Brush 210. Buy it online from: MAC Cosmetics.com, MAC Cosmetics.co.uk and MAC Cosmetics.com.au.

Is applying liquid eyeliner your biggest beauty frustration? is a post from: Little Miss Makeup's Blog